Spanning 40 years from Circular Quay to Carlton, Arc Café in its current guise might never have existed if not for the culinary adventures of executive chef Alex Roser. How fortunate his journey took the turns it did. After semi-retiring to Blairgowrie in 2004 with his partner in life and business, Cathy Cooke, Alex was soon itching to return to the kitchen, albeit without the demanding hours of running a restaurant. As a result, Arc Café was launched as one of the first premium wholesale food producers on the Peninsula, making restaurant-quality take-home tarts available from a growing range of stockists. Now consumers can play the role of chef themselves, serving these tasty tarts at home to the admiration of friends and family.
Alex as a teen would be proud. For him, the thrill of cooking was always the excitement of making and sharing new creations. It would have been easy to fall into the family business. His father, Michel, owned and ran a successful restaurant on the Hume Highway near Tahmoor in NSW that became famous for its wild game dishes. Like many 18-year-olds, however, Alex longed to carve his own identity. He upped sticks and set out for the city. In shaping the type of chef and restaurant owner he would become, Alex’s experience in Sydney would be significant. He worked at Len Evans Wines – a wine shop and restaurant combined – in Bulletin Place, Circular Quay. Len, the first regular wine columnist in Australia and author of the hefty near-800-page wine compendium The Complete Book of Australian Wine, once said: “Life will never be the same fun as the ‘70s in Sydney.” Alex’s eyes twinkle when recalling his time working for Len. They were heady days. As an apprentice, Alex’s team covered the business lunch shift, charged with satisfying a rowdy crowd of expectant executives. With instructions to give the diners something special without stipulating what that ‘something’ might be, the kitchen became a playground to experiment with different dishes. Alex's speciality became pastries and desserts, offering the most potential for play.
His passion for food and wine continued at his first restaurant. Moving to Melbourne, he and Cathy opened Arc Café in Rathdowne St in 1994, refurbishing an old Lebanese bakery once owned by the Smorgon family. As famous then for its Italian dining as it is now, asserting a presence in Rathdowne St as a restaurant offering modern Australian fare was bound to be a challenge. Alex’s extensive experience as a chef alongside Cathy’s extraordinary flair as creative director and restaurant manager proved a winning partnership. Leo Schofield had been familiar with Alex in Sydney, having on occasion appointed him chef for his own private functions. In Victoria, as director of the Melbourne Arts Festival, Leo was often in the media. Asked in a radio interview to name his favourite places to eat in Melbourne, his enthusiastic endorsement of Arc Café saw bookings skyrocket. It was the beginning of a successful 20-year business. BYO restaurants were a rarity in the area then, yet Arc Café encouraged diners to bring their own wines. Along with its innovative menu, the venue became popular for hosting wine clubs.
Alex and Cathy are still known for bringing people together. At a commercial kitchen in Rosebud, a combination of hardworking chefs and locals, including several mums, now comprise the staff of the latest version of Arc Café in its production of wholesale tarts. Alex and Cathy treat their team the same way as their customers in never taking them for granted. Their loyalty is reciprocated. The team takes pride in the delicious tarts, always ensuring only top-quality products are released for sale. Savoury tarts include classic quiche; spinach, ricotta and caramelised onion; and chicken and leek pie, all generously filled with fresh ingredients. Sweet tarts, which can be dressed with meringues or fresh berries and which include an exemplary lemon tart – not too sweet, not too sour – have to be tried to be believed. With more than 15 varieties available from more than 35 stockists, take the opportunity to treat yourself to an Arc Café tart – the culmination of a chef’s life work.
Arc Café Rosebud. T: 5982 3500; 0400 299 012. E: aroser@arccafe.com.au www.arccafe.com.au